Please visit "The Interior" page for
a detailed description.
German square weave carpet.
Professionally made door panels and
seat covers by Sewfine. I picked the colors myself to match the paint.
Restored ORIGINAL steering wheel with a
functioning horn and turn signal lever.
ORIGINAL Bendix Sapphire I radio that
has been converted to 12 volt! and
modified to run AM, FM, and
aux-in for iPods and such! The speaker
is not original, but it is original
in size and placement - it's mono w/ static, just like the old days. :)
Headliner and all other interior top
pieces were purchased through
Chuck's Convertibles. High quality stuff.
Some ORIGINAL re-chromed dash parts,
That's all I can think of.
Serious buyers, please ask questions. I will be honest with you.
Full flow case, heavy duty oil pump
69mm counterweighted 8 dowelled crankshaft
Swivel feet on the rockers (set at .006")
Engle 120 camshaft
Bosch 009 distributor (was SVDA in pic)
Bosch blue coil
Dual valve springs
New clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing
Setrab external oil cooler,
with manually activated fan, FRAM oil filter.
Oil temperature sending unit built
into the dipstick (to interior gauge)
Single, BOCAR 34 PICT 3 Carburetor
Vintage Speed exhaust system!
Cooling tin present,
special cooling tin installed in place of the heater boxes
36 hp-style off-set dog house shroud with a 35mm welded fan.
*No heater boxes
External oil filter (Fram PH8A)
w/ steel braided lines
The carpet is the same as the interior - german square weave.
I have an aftermarket dashboard wiring cover with an old Bus Volkswagen logo on the left, and the ORIGINAL Karmann badge on the right.
The spare tire is also an original 5-lugbolt wheel with a modern lower profile tire - 135/15.
The gas tank is new, like old stock, with the ORIGINAL gas cap that I painted the same time the car was painted. It matches the exterior paint perfectly. The tank has a new float and sending mechanism to the fuel gauge, which works, and has the correct "TANK" faceplate label.
The windshield washer reservoir is present, but is not hooked up to either the spare tire or the "little monster" that shoots the cleaning solution on the windshield. It is just sitting there in its place empty.
The hood hinges and springs were professionally painted with the rest of the car, and there is no flaking.
The pull-latch that pops the hood is ORIGINAL. It's the type with a locking mechanism, so the trunk can be locked if you're away from the car and the top is down. I have the key and the key/lock both work!
The wiring harness is (was) brand new. I think I bought it from Wolfsburg West, although I don't remember. But, it's great quality, and everything works! Even the "top-down" switch, the radio light, the license plate light, and the interior dome light.
Quartz Hill, CA
5. It will leave a few oil drip spots on your garage floor.
6. I never converted the windshield wiper motor to 12v. I just don't use it.
- Final Notes -
** CLICK VIDEO BELOW TO SEE/HEAR THE ENGINE RUNNING **
2. It will sometimes not idle until warm - seems to depend on where the choke step lever rests.
*You will find an obligatory drop or two of oil underneath the engine sometimes. But, that's about it for leaks.
** See the videos below for complete walk-around views of the car. (it might save you a trip if you don't like what you see.) **
I finished the restoration in 2005. The car has about 900 miles on it since then. (I put a new speedometer/odometer in it when I restored it and it was set at ZERO.) You've heard of the term "Trailer Queen?" Well, this car is a Garage Queen. She's been inside, under cover, for the last 12 years. Yes, I drive it. I take it out on nice days and to an occasional show, but it's never been on a significant road trip. I have no reason to think there would be any problem on a long trip - just stating the fact I've never done it.
The electric system has been converted to 12 volt, the interior and top color schemes are not stock, and the motor is not stock. Therefore, you could NOT enter this into a VW car show in a "stock" class. Technically, it's "custom" because it's not completely original stock. (I thought I would mention that in case the buyer has that in mind.) My intent was to have a stock look, with more style and functionality.
What's Wrong with it?
There aren't many things wrong with this car, but I believe in being completely honest about selling things. The buyer should have as much information as possible before considering making the purchase!!
Please visit "The Top/The Top 2" pages for
a detailed description.
Just like everything else on this car,
I used high quality parts.
Real wood, brass screws to prevent
rust, and a Haartz Stayfast canvas top.
The frame was sandblasted, primed,
All the seals have been either replaced
or cleaned up like new. *The only seals
that don't fit very well are the seals on
the frame that close on top of the rear portion of the rear windows. Because of this, I resorted to modern weatherstipping for a few inches to seal the gaps.
1. Some hairline cracks in the paint as shown below ...
I do have the "boot" to put over the convertible top when it's down, but honestly it doesn't fit very well so I never use it. It is high quality canvas material like the top.
The SIDE glass is all ORIGINAL with the ORIGINAL frames. The windows were in pretty good shape as they were. I just cleaned them up a bit. So, if you look closely at the side windows (including the functioning wing windows), you can see imperfections and their age. I think it's kinda cool.
The windshield is custom made, double-glass, and tinted ever so slightly. The rear window says VW-Audi. I have no idea if it's original or what year it might have been made. I just know it's the correct size for this year and there's nothing wrong with it.
The decklid is ORIGINAL for this car. I challenge you to find another one like it. It has the correct vents for the convertible, and has become nearly as hard to find (and as expensive) as the "W" lids are. The decklid handle is also original. I have it tied to itself on the inside so the "hook" won't latch to the car and scratch my paint! That's how careful I have been with this car. (Since it's been painted, the deck lid has never been latched.) The decklid spring is in place, is also painted to match the car, and will hold the lid up when opened as designed - no need for the classic "VW Stick" to hold the lid open (although I still do that at shows in case some jackass bumps it.)
The front and rear bumpers are NOT original. They were both purchased from Wolfsburg West (you know the ones they sell for $400 bucks each?) and are SUPER quality like the originals.
The front left fender is ORIGINAL. The front right fender is LIKE original, thick GERMAN metal, fits perfectly (price was $250 I think in 2005 ... but good luck finding these today!). Both rear fenders are aftermarket - I couldn't find any GERMAN or MEXICAN NOS. Of course, they didn't fit right. So, I had them professionally modified to fit properly (cut and welded) before the car was painted - the work cost me more than the fenders did!
If you haven't read the rest of the site yet (about the restoration), then you need to know the front and rear clips have been replaced. This was not due to an accident. Both clips just suffered from rot - this car must have lived outside at some point in its life. Click the following links; Front Clip and Rear Clip for details.
The mud flaps are aftermarket. I think you can still buy them online? I made custom brackets to hang them and coated the brackets with undercoating material. The RIGHT mud flap has a burn depression in it. I was loading the car onto a trailer one time at a show, and it melted on the old exhaust system I had. I never replaced it.
Running boards are Wolfsburg West. Super quality and correct for this car. Fender beading all fits well. All exterior (and interior) lights work. All new window, door, trunk, and decklid rubber. (that stuff isn't cheap either!)
The front turn signals are CLEAR. This is one of the reasons I sometimes refer to this car as a 1963 1/2, rather than a '64. 1963's were clear, 1964's were not. Also true to 1963 (and this car) is the passenger's door handle. It does NOT have an exterior lock - no place to insert a key. It's just a chrome button. The driver's side has the key lock, which works.
I recently removed the old crappy merged exhaust system I had, and replaced it with a complete Vintage Speed system. If you haven't heard of them before, I recommend you Google it. They are made in Taiwan, but are super good quality modern-type exhaust systems that are engineered to fit our old, stock VWs. They're made of all stainless steel and sound great. Also NOT cheap.
In one of the videos you'll see me turning the radio ON and OFF several times. This is intentional. Cycling the knob ON and OFF changes the mode of the radio ... AM to FM to AUX to OFF! I had the original radio changed to 12v, modified to receive both AM & FM, and had a port added for AUX in! See the Bendix Sapphire I (Radio) page for details.
The undercarriage is unremarkable. I didn't "restore" anything down there because it didn't need it. I just made sure everything was functional, and shot the pan and fender wells with undercoating. The pans had been replaced before I bought it. They are in great shape - solid, with no holes or rust. So, although this car shows very well on top, it's not a car you're going to put mirrors underneath at car shows. You can actually drive it and not worry about polishing the bottom when you get back home!
The frame rails (unique to the convertibles) are also solid. A lot of times, these are rusted and rotted out. It doesn't look like they've ever been replaced, but I don't know for sure. Regardless, they're all good.
4. The shifter will sometimes pop out of reverse if you take your hand off of it. It has done this the entire time I've owned it. If you keep your hand on the shifter it doesn't happen.
Please visit "The Paint" page for
a detailed description.
Everything was removed from the car
to facilitate a factory-type paint job.
The color is L87 - Pearl White.
And, yes, it is one of the original color
choices for this year/model. (this exact
car was originally Yukon Yellow, but I
just didn't care for the color enough
to build the car around it.)
Original 5 "lugbolt" VW wheels.
I went with a two-tone design to accent the
exterior paint and the tan top. I had the tan
color mixed special to match a piece of the canvas fabric from the top.
The hubcaps are not original. However, they are GERMAN, original quality. They are thick, fit perfectly, and have a brilliant chrome finish. Oh, they were expensive, too. Wolfsburg West is selling them now for $125.00 EACH!! Yikes.
The undersides of the fenders have all been shot with an undercoating material, as has the bottom of the floor pan.
I did the front brakes during the restoration, and the rear brakes just last year. They all work fine (E brake, too). All new pads, cylinders, and bleeding pegs.
3. On the right cylinder head, where the top rear exhaust bolt screws in, I broke off a small piece of the head. The missing material was filled with plastic weld. It is torqued to factory specs, and there are no issues with it at all. (this is just important to know in the event the exhaust bolts are ever removed and re-torqued. Be careful when tightening this one and don't go beyond the factory foot pound specs.)
*Professionally rebuilt during the restoration. It's got 855 miles on it since the rebuild in 2005! Because it has been sitting a lot, I've changed the oil many times to keep it fresh. The battery was new last year and has a quick-disconnect lever for the non-driving periods.
Below are some random pictures, along with some information about the car; details, flaws, 6 walk-around videos, the works.